Distance: Around 7 miles

Difficulty of the terrain: Medium

Get the route: via Ordnance Survey Maps or download the GPX. from Dropbox

A walk from Leominster north across the Welsh Marches country of northern Herefordshire, to the National Trust’s Croft Castle house and parkland near Yarpole.

The Story

The Walk

Getting Back

When “Everything Must Change to Stay the Same”

Shortly after my walk to Witley Court in Worcestershire, I thought that I’d continue my travels to stately homes with connections to the early modern era’s iron founding industry in Worcestershire, Herefordshire and Shropshire, by visiting Croft Castle.

Situated about 5 miles due north of Leominster in the upper reaches of Herefordshire, Croft Castle was once an actual castle. Though pretty much no traces of it’s medieval origins remain today. The Castle’s site was first occupied by the Croft family, who through an arrangement with the National Trust who now own it continue to reside in parts of it to this day, in the 11th Century. They built a Castle structure on the land to cement their control of their Welsh borderlands estates. Indeed the family during the middle ages straddled both sides of the Welsh/Anglo-Norman divide, having close ties to the family of Owain Glyndŵr, a Welsh aristocrat who in the 15th Century became the last leader to seriously contest England’s domination of Wales by force of arms.

The bulk of the current Croft Castle was built in the 1660s when one of the family was the Bishop of Hereford. A quintessential example of how economic, civic and spiritual power has always tended to be exercised by the same people.

This pattern was disrupted somewhat – in the case of the Croft family at least – by the South Sea Company speculative bubble in the early 18th Century. Their investments in this slave trading enterprise (that the labour of enslaved people was what the company primarily traded is often elided in the history of the firm) collapsed in value after it emerged that the company’s board were enriching themselves through fraud and insider trading on an industrial scale. The fallout from this incident led the family to sell Croft Castle to Richard Knight the wealthy owner of Bringewood Ironworks near the River Teme, a relatively rare example of established landed power symbolically yielding to the wealth of an emerging industrial class.

After passing through a series of similar nouveau riche owners, taking on much of its modern appearance along the way, Croft Castle was purchased by Katherine, Lady Croft in 1923 returning the family who had first built on the site over 800 years previously back into ownership.

Whilst a certain species of inter-war reactionary doubtless approved of this ancient landed family being back in control of their ancestral seat, the family had limited funds with which to secure it’s upkeep. Indeed in 1937 a large chunk of the surviving 17th Century part of the building was demolished to make the property a more manageable size. In the late 1950s with the demolition of the remainder of the building a possibility, Diana Uhlman, the daughter of Katherine, Lady Croft and a well connected arts administrator, curator and collector, and inter-war “fellow traveller”, brokered the deal with the National Trust that placed the bulk of the management and upkeep of the property in the nation’s hands.

Something of this artistic legacy remains in the Trust’s management of the house and surrounding parkland. This has included recent collaborations with Meadow Arts who facilitate contemporary arts projects in rural locations across Shropshire, Herefordshire and Worcester. The property’s grounds are also quite interesting, including Fishpool Valley, an impressive and largely restored 18th Century landscaped valley garden, and Croft Ambrey and Iron Age hill fort. Proof that long before the middle ages the defensive importance and potential of the area was appreciated by the inhabitants of what is now Herefordshire.

The Walk

Get the route: via Ordnance Survey Maps or download the gpx. from Dropbox

I create the Walk Midlands routes via Ordnance Survey Maps Explorer enabling me to take them on my phone. Subscribe yourself via the banner above.

Leominster Railway Station, one stop and little more than 10 minutes up the Welsh Marches Line from Hereford, is where the walk begins.

On leaving the station, cross the forecourt and then turn right onto Worcester Road.

After just a few moments walking you reach The White Lion pub. Here turn right again and cross the car park behind the pub besides the railway line.

Here you will see a paved pathway in front of some recently built homes overlooking the tracks.

Follow this pathway along for a short distance until you have passed the new buildings.

At this point you will find a pathway leading into a hedgerow, head through into the park beyond.

Pass through the gate that you come to.

Then follow the gravel path on the other side through an orchard type area.

Keep following this path in a straight line, passing a standing stone type piece of public sculpture that was probably erected for the Millenium or some similar commemoration in the 1990s or 2000s.

Presently you turn and walk past a line of wooden posts put in to deter motor vehicles.

On the far side you walk through similar terrain for a short distance.

At which point the tower of Leominster Priory, which stands next to the town’s YHA Hostel becomes visible.

Having walked through the gate follow the road round on your right past the Priory.

Just after the Priory you reach a crossroads type junction, turn right here.

After a couple of moments walking you come to a white painted bridge over a river.

Having crossed over the bridge turn right and follow the tarmaced pathway along the river bank.

Presently this leads you out onto a road by a series of large, late Victorian vintage detached houses on a main road.

Turn left once you reach the road.

Follow the pavement a short way and cross over the railway line by means of a level crossing.

Having crossed the railway line, walk along the road for a couple of minutes until you see a stand of large conifer trees on the left hand side. These stand by a BP petrol station.

Just before you reach the filling station, cross over the road and walk down the unmade, but clearly well used, track between the petrol station forecourt conifers and the some deciduous leafed trees.

At the bottom of the track you come to a concrete bridge leading out onto grassy fields.

Once you have crossed the bridge the track continues running at the side of the fields.

Follow it across the field past an oak tree standing on your left.

At the bottom keep walking into the next field along.

Here the track largely peters out, but is still partially visible in the grass.

Cross over the style that appears on your right hand side.

Then follow the line of the watercourse running on your right for a short distance.

Presently you come to a worn looking – but quite study – footbridge. Ignore this and keep walking up the field a little further.

Instead walk a little way further up the field, turn left and cross it.

Here you’ll find a style and a bridge. The bridge is a much better shape than the one you have just passed.

At this point make your way around the edge of the field keeping on the grass strip at the edge.

Presently you come to another way mark sign pointing you over a concrete bridge.

On the other side continue following the strip of grass at the edge of the field around until you come to the railway embankment.

Here there is a slight slope upwards and then a style to cross before being beside the tracks.

The line runs pretty straight here, so unless it is a very foggy day it should be possible to see any trains running either direction long before they reach you. Still, make sure to take care here as there are no warning lights or gates or anything else to warn a person of oncoming trains at this crossing point.

Once on the other side of the track cross over the style and follow the path along the edge of the field beyond.

Continue along here for several minutes and presently it turns into a semi-paved track.

Presently you reach a sturdy wooden footbridge on your right marked with footpath signs.

Cross over this bridge and walk through the small, narrow copse on the other side.

Having done this, turn left and begin picking your way carefully through the wood yard on the other side.

After several minutes picking your way through the wood stacks this opens out onto some workshops.

And then a forecourt.

At the far side of the forecourt in front of the tall oak tree turn right down a lane.

This leads through the hamlet of The Broad.

Presently the road through The Broad leads out onto a larger road, turn right onto this road.

A very short way along this larger road there is a t-junction. Turn left here.

At this point you can either carry on up the lane (which is fairly quiet) or walk through the field on the right hand side of the little lane which is accessed via a metal gate. I chose to do the former.

Walk a short way up the lane.

Presently you will see a waymark sign and a metal gate on your left.

Use the gate to enter the field on the other side.

Once inside the field cross over the short distance to a band of hedgerow and tall grass located on your left.

Then follow this hedgerow line along the field in the direction of a power line and a cluster of trees beyond. There is a small waymark sign by the hedgerow to show you the you are going the correct way.

After a couple of minutes walking you pass underneath the power line through a waymarked gap in the hedgerow.

Once on the other side crosses the field in front of you.

Once on the other side there is a style located near to some trees.

At this point I found that either the land owner or a tenant farmer had put an electric fence across where the path to the style was. They’d put a little bit of insulation over it immediately before the style, but not enough for me to be convinced by it, and I had no idea whether the wire was live or not. I got around this by taking my coat off and putting that over the wire before I attempted to cross.

Once safely over the wire and across the style, cross the field on the far side, walking past a few small trees protected from livestock by metal containers.

By a metal gate, exit the field across another style which leads onto a small country lane.

Once on the road surface of the lane another style leading across into a field which was full of sheep on the day I visited, can be viewed almost immediately opposite where you have just crossed.

Cross over this style and walk a little way through the sheep field in the direction of some farm buildings beyond.

Presently on your left a small shed like building is visible next to a small copse and a gate.

Make your way through this gate – taking care not to allow any sheep through after you.

On the far side turn right and walk behind the shed, following the fence line past the copse, towards a hedgerow at the bottom of the field.

Once you reach this hedgerow, cross over the style next to a metal gate and continue walking to the edge of the adjoining field.

Having reached the next hedgerow make your way through the undergrowth (and past a large pile of timber partly blocking the way when I walked the route).

On the other side there is a more visible track made by vehicles on the other side.

Follow this across the next field, towards another tall hedgerow.

Here there is a waymarked sign pointing through a metal gate into the field beyond, walk through the gate.

Follow the path around the field heading for the hedgerow-cum-small copse on the other side.

Once you get there, there is a style leading onto a somewhat rickety, twisted, yet sturdy bridge.

On the other side you find yourself in a pasture type field on the edge of the hamlet of Eyton.

Walk across it making your way up the gently sloping hill, there is no obvious path across it.

As you near the far side head towards a red brick building, either a barn conversion or trying it’s hardest to look like one, with two tall straight trees in front of it.

Next to this building, runs a wall, over which can be seen a half timbered building. Set in this wall is a style, albeit an unusual looking one, which is partially obscured by a gate onto a driveway on the other side.

Having crossed over this style onto the roadway beyond another style is visible on the other side made of pale wood and leading into a copse.

Walk a short way down the path on the other side until you come to a metal gate.

Having passed through this gate you find yourself on the edge of a narrow country lane.

Turn left and walk a short distance up this lane past a few scattered houses.

After a short but moderately steep climb you will see the outbuildings of Hill Farm on your left.

A waymark sign points across the farmyard.

Turn left off the road here and cross the farmyard.

On the other side walk down a short steep track back onto agricultural land.

Follow the track as it heads steadily uphill towards some scattered clusters of trees.

The path twists somewhat as you near the top of the rise.

Just after the summit of this rise the path takes a slight left turn and begins heading downhill after a style.

Continue walking until you reach a gate which leads out onto Croft Lane. A welcome sign that you are beginning to enter Croft country…

Immediately adjacent to where you exit the field onto this lane you will see a waymark sign pointing to your left at the mouth of a driveway.

Head across the lane and turn left through a metal gate onto a pathway.

Follow this pathway a short distance until you come to another metal gateway leading out onto a pasture like field.

Head across this field in the direction of an oak tree ahead of you. There are a few scattered buildings visible in the near distance.

The path leads towards a small copse at the bottom of the hill.

Here to your right you will see a metal gate in a thick hedgerow on your right, near the entrance to another field.

The gate is on your left handside as you approach. Once at the edge of the copse head through a pair of metal gates which lead out onto another pasture.

Make your way across the long thin field. On the day I walked the route it was being grazed by knots of sheep.

Presently on your right there is a metal gate which leads out onto more open fields, having passed through a thick hedgerow.

Having crossed into the field, walk along the path beside the edge of the field, heading in the direction of a farm in the near distance.

Just before you reach the farm itself there is a gap in the low hedge. Use this to get access to the adjacent field.

Walk a little way along the edge of this field until you are more or less level with a wooden electricity pole.

At this point walk across the field in the direction of the pole. You will see that just next to the pole stands a style leading into the field beyond.

Once in the next field make your way across in the direction of the hedgerow at the top of a steadily rising slope.

Here you will find another style, cross over the style.

Once in the next field, which is larger, continue walking up the hill towards the summit.

Here you will find another style which leads into a quintessentially Herefordshire apple orchard.

Pass through the trees to reach the other side of the orchard.

Here near the far corner on your right you will find a style.

Having crossed over the style, turn right.

You shortly come to a gate, pass through the gate.

At this point you turn onto a road – almost without exception the remainder of the walk is on tarmac.

Turn left and walk down a sloping hill.

Near the bottom there is a footpath sign on your right, this leads across a field, which offers a traffic free way to cut the corner of the road, but which doesn’t otherwise offer anything else.

If you remain on the road turn right at the bottom of the lane.

You are now approaching the southern outskirts of the village of Yarpole.

Like many villages in this part of the country it’s quite dispersed, and comprises houses from many different periods, including a couple of small estates currently under construction.

Shortly after you enter the village you come to a y-shaped junction near it’s historic core.

Take the left hand fork and this point and begin walking up a hill.

On your right a little way up the road stands the village’s church. Historically the church was renowned for its centuries old detached bell tower, which is interesting.

Today what is perhaps even more interesting is the extent to which the church has become a hive of community activity. Seeing a sign for a community run shop situated in the church I decided to go in and find some water. Inside the church has been transformed into a community hub in one section, with space for secular events as well as church services, and the shop which is located in another section. The shop is impressively well stocked, encourages people to order goods for collection there, and offers some post office services as well as information and access to other public services and amenities that a community like Yarpole would probably otherwise lack.

Having brought my water I continued up the hill. A few minutes further up, I walked past the village’s pub The Bell at Yarpole, which judging by its Mary Celeste air of recent abandonment and a chalk sign board, had pulled it’s last pint – possibly ever – not so long ago. A sign that despite the community’s efforts some recent social trends march on.

Presently the village is left behind leaving you to walk along the lane for a bit.

After a stand of trees the top of the hill is reached and the road begins curving downwards.

Following a bit of further walking you reach a crossroads. Here the lane runs across a busier main road which leads towards the A49 that serves Ludlow and Tenbury Wells, the nearest towns besides Leominster of any size.

Crossing over the crossroads you walk past a scattering of cottages.

Just after these on your left is the sign welcoming you to Croft Castle.

Once here the journey is not quite over, as you still have to walk for more than half a kilometer up the Castle’s long driveway to access the ticket office and facilities like toilets and the cafe. Having got there however, I’d recommend a walk around the grounds and a visit to the interesting little church that sits alongside the main house.

Getting Back

To return I got the 490 bus from the village of Bircher which lies around a mile from the Croft Castle estate. The 490 runs several times a day between Ludlow and Leominster, allowing access to the train station in either town. To get the late afternoon back to Leominster I walked to Bircher Turn, a bus stop which stands just south of the village at a crossroads. When I got there I found no sign of a stop. Which was slightly alarming. However, when the time came, the bus turned up only a few minutes late, and the driver beckoned me round the corner to the side of the crossroads where it stopped, allowing me to get on. The journey back to Leominster then took between 15 to 20 minutes allowing me to catch a train up to Shrewsbury and then back to Birmingham.