Distance: 7.6 miles
Difficulty of the terrain: hard
Get the route via: Ordnance Survey Maps or download the GPX. file from Dropbox
Circular walk in Derbyshire’s White Peak countryside from Bakewell out to the historic and deeply atmospheric Magpie Mine where lead was mined for hundreds of years.
The Story
The Walk
Getting Back
A Grey Glint in the Peak District’s Eye
Situated three to four miles west of Bakewell the Magpie Mine is a fascinating, Peak District icon and amongst the best preserved examples of a lead mine in the UK.
Lead was mined in the Derbyshire Peak District from Roman times up until partway through the 20th Century. It has hard, dangerous work for those engaged in it, something heightened by the poisonous quality of many of the ores miners worked to extract and refine. Research conducted a few years ago into the metals content of glacial ice in the Swiss Alps indicates that levels of airborne lead pollution of European in the 12th and 13th Centuries were comparable to during the Industrial Revolution, something which points to the sheer scale of the mining and refining operation that was being undertaken in Derbyshire during that period. This is perhaps the reason why the carving came to be in the church, recognition from the community that their living depended upon the risks taken by the miners and other workers toiling to produce usable lead.
From ancient times, throughout the middle ages and the early modern period, up until near our own era; Europeans lead used for pipework and to waterproof the roofs of churches and other major buildings. During the 15th and 16th Centuries demand only increased, as new uses were found for the metal in the forms of musket shot, and as a long lasting yet flexible means to fix in place panes of the increasingly commonplace window glass.
Lead mining was regulated by the barmote courts which sat at Wirksworth on the southern edge of Derbsyhire’s White Peak and Castleton in its far north. They ruled on the correct interpretation of mining customary law and statutes alike, policing the mining industry and adjudicating on disputes between prospectors and landowners alike.
Derbyshire lead mining custom from ancient times was that anybody who suspected that they had found a seam of the metal could mine it. This was how the Magpie Mine site got going with small scale surface workings taking place on the site as far back as 1682. The pockmarks of these small-scale, often single operator extraction efforts can be seen on the site of the mine to this day.
The more substantial remnants on the Magpie Mine site relate to later era’s of the mine’s operation. Several small, but increasingly substantial mines operated on the site throughout the 18th and early 19th Centuries. It was a boom and bust, feast and famine, kind of existence, with great profits being generated at times between the 1790s and 1830s, and a while while later mines on the site being entirely closed due to disputes and falling metal prices meaning that they could not be worked.
Opportunity to make money in good year’s encouraged investment in the Magpie Mine with a massive primitive, but effective, Cornish beam engine being installed in 1824. The chimney and engine house for which still dominate the Magpie Mine’s location. The pumping capabilities of the beam engine enabled the mine shaft to be sunk to hitherto unimaginable depths and production to be substantially ramped up. In 1827 the vast quantity of 800 imperial tons of pure lead were winched up from the pit.
In the early 1830s there was great controversy and a conflict, which resulted in three deaths, over the mining of lead seams on the site. In 1833 the miners working the Magpie Mine site were in dispute with those digging the adjacent Maypitt Mine. The Magpie miners broke through into the Maypitt workings. During this dispute fights broke out between the rival miners and acts of sabotage were perpetuated on both sides. Eventually a fire was seemingly lit, purportedly to smoke out the Maypitt miners from where they were digging.
During this blaze three Maypitt miners died from smoke inhalation. Twenty four Magpie Mine workers were arrested and charged with conspiracy to murder and other offences. However, when the case came before Derby Assizes they were acquitted, because it was impossible for the prosecution to prove that the blaze had been started deliberately with the intention to kill. Local legend has it however, that the Magpie Mine was cursed by the three widows of the dead Maypitt miners and that the curse remains placed upon the mine to this day.
Curse or no curse, in the years immediately after this tragedy, the Magpie Mine did come to dominate lead working on the site. In 1839 John Taylor, a renowned mining engineer, took charge of managing the concern. During the 1840s he modernised the Magpie Mine, turning it into a significant industrial concern, decisively completing the proletarianisation of the miners through instituting a shift system and placing them on wage earning contacts, and commissioning many of the buildings which stand on the site to this day.
The 19th Century was very much the mine’s heyday with production again hitting the vast quantity of 800 imperial tons in 1871. Amongst the highest amounts of lead extracted from the mine during its roughly 250 year lifespan. In 1881 the Magpie Sough, running downhill for nearly a mile downhill to discharge into the River Wye which flows south through Bakewell, opened. Even today, nearly 70 years after the Magpie Mine closed for the final time, this drainage channel continues to discharge millions of litres of water from the mine into the river every day.
In comparison to the Victorian era the 20th Century was a less felicitous time for the Magpie Mine with operation of the site becoming more intermittent. A 1913 survey estimated that there could be up to four million imperial tons of lead recoverable from the site which encouraged a number of Sheffield industrialists to invest in the site. However, economic changes coupled with, and stemming from the First World War, meaning that after 1919 with the exception of a brief attempted reopening in 1923, the mine remained disused.
1950, one year prior to the White Peak area where the Magpie Mine sits being incorporated into the newly created Peak District National Park, saw a more substantial and sustained attempt to reopen the mine. The metal pithead winding gear (actually a ship’s cargo winch) and more modern corrugated iron structures on site date from this era. However, this attempted reopening was not sustainable in the long-term with the mine closing in 1958.
The Magpie Mine was the final, and also the most substantial, lead mine to operate in the Peak District. Reaching a final depth of 222 metres below the surface, a significant descent. It was not however, the final mine to operate inside the National Park, that honour falls to a small fluorspar mine just outside Eyam which shut in 1979. Extraction, chiefly of limestone, continues apace in and around the National Park especially near Waterhouses, Hope and Buxton to this day.
Following the Magpie Mine’s 1958 closure the site passed into the care of the Peak District Mines Historical Society who steward the location, conducting maintenance, providing interpretation, and occasionally hosting historically focused events on the site. Generally though, it is a quiet industrial monument, appreciated by walkers coming from the nearby village of Shelton and further afield, a fascinating landmark and remnant of the Peak District’s industrial past.
The Walk
Get the route: via Ordnance Survey Maps or download the GPX. file from Dropbox
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This circular walk from the bus stops in Bakewell town centre to the atmospheric and much mythologised Magpie Mine begins just down from the roundabout in the middle of Bakewell near the Rutland Hotel.
Walk towards the Rutland Hotel and cross the A6 road which runs north west out of Bakewell towards Buxton, Stockport and Manchester.
Here to the right of the Rutland Hotel there is a residential road running uphill towards Bakewell’s distinctive All Saints Parish Church.
At the bottom of the churchyard on your left there is a path running off to the left. Cross over the road and head up this path.
Upon reaching this path and entering the churchyard follow it straight uphill past the church.
Just beyond the church you reach the top of the churchyard and step through a limestone archway out onto a quiet lane.
Once on this lane turn left and walk down hill towards the B5055.
Upon reaching the road turn right and walk uphill along a pavement through a residential area.
Soon on the left hand side of the road you see a quiet lane lined with old houses. Cross over the B5055 and head down this lane.
Look out on the right as you walk for a steep flight of steps leading uphill.
At the top of the steps walk straight ahead along a tarmac track through a small estate of mid-20th Century bungalows.
This soon turns into a snicket which has an old stone stile – probably to stop mopeds – part way along it.
Carry on straight along a quiet road through an estate of modern houses.
Soon you come to a tarmac footpath which you walk along for some distance.
Presently you reach the side of a road right on the edge of Bakewell. Cross over here and head back a snicket between a school and some dog kennels heading for open countryside.
At the bottom of the snicket you come to a gateway out onto a field. Walk straight across the field on the far side making for an old stile in the distinctive very narrow Peak District style.
Once over the stile walk straight across the field on the far side making for a metal gate.
Next to the metal gate there is a wooden footgate which you walk through. On the far side turn sharply to the left walking along the line of a fence and a hedgerow.
Walk straight ahead for quite some distance.
Presently you approach a drystone wall. Upon nearing the wall, turn sharply to the left and walk uphill.
Here there is a gateway into an adjoining field. Walk through the gateway then take a well defined path running to the left, up a shallow wold like dale.
Follow this path uphill for quite some distance. It runs very close to the edge of the field demarcated by a hedgerow and drystone wall.
Nearing the top of the hill there is a wooden gate on your left. Walk through this gate and straight across a narrow field on the far side until you reach a corresponding gate which you pass through.
On the far side of the gate walk uphill along a short stretch of path towards the side of a country road.
Once on the side of the road turn left and begin walking along the road towards the village of Over Haddon. Take care as while visibility is good, drivers and cyclists can travel quite fast.
Presently there is a road running off to the right along the village’s main road. Turn right and begin walking down it.
Presently there is a road running off to the right along the village’s main road. Turn right and begin walking down it.
Carry on straight along the road through the middle of Over Haddon.
Upon reaching the edge of the village carry on along the lane a little further.
Having passed a couple of farms look out on your right for a short flight of stone steps leading up into a field.
Once in the field walk straight ahead uphill following a drystone wall.
At the top of the hill there is a wooden gate leading into another field. Once through the gate walk straight ahead making for a waymarking post partway across the field.
Upon reaching this post follow the arrow and turn right, walking diagonally across a wide field, heading for the left hand corner. On reaching the far side there is a stone stile which you cross.
After crossing the stile turn to the left and cross over a blue plastic covered piece of rope, serving as an ad-hoc stile across a fence in the middle of the field.
On the far side of this blue plastic coated stile take a slight right and walk straight ahead towards a gate set in a drystone wall.
Through the gate walk straight ahead along the edge of a field towards a stile.
Having crossed the stile walk straight ahead approach a stand of trees sticking out into the field.
Here there is a stone stile which you climb. On the far side of the stile walk straight ahead approaching the side of B5055 running up from Bakewell.
On reaching the side of the road, there is a set of steps leading across a drystone wall onto the road side. Cross straight over here and enter the field on the far side.
Walk straight uphill towards a stone stile at the top of the field.
After clambering over the stile carry on straight across the field approaching another stile this one made of wood.
On the far side walk straight ahead heading downhill towards a stand of trees, where you cross another stile and walk across the thin field on the far side.
Cross a wooden stile here and take a sharp left. Begin walking up a slight incline along the edge of the field, walking between a series of trees.
Soon you nearly come level with a small copse on you right on the far side of the field. Upon reaching this point turn right and cross the field.
Here on the edge of the trees there is a stile composed of one concrete step which you cross. On the far side of the stile walk a short distance along the edge of a field. Soon you come to a stile on your left. Cross over this stile walk along a short track through the copse.
Follow the footpath downhill towards the road which runs at the bottom of Kirk Dale.
Follow the footpath downhill towards the road which runs at the bottom of Kirk Dale.
Upon reaching the bottom of Kirk Dale having walked through a gate onto the side of the road, cross the road and head up a wide path to the right.
Carry on walking uphill, crossing a stile partway up. It is easy to imagine that this track was once a miner’s path.
At the top of the hill carry on straight following the path around the edge of a field steadily approaching the remains of Magpie Mine.
Presently the path curves sharply to the right, and you continue following the path and the line of a drystone wall.
Soon on the right you come to a wooden gate which you walk through.On the far side turn sharply to the left and begin following the path as it runs along the drystone wall on the far side.
On reaching the bottom of the field there is a wooden gate which leads into the enclosure where the Magpie Mine ruins stand. Once through the gate turn left approaching the ruins.
Once on the Magpie Mine site spend some time taking in the historic monument, interpretation and enjoying the distinctive qualities of the location.
After taking in the Magpie Mine site head back to by the main mound where the remains of the newcomen engine house and the old mining gear stands, near to where you entered the site.
Here take a path running to the left approaching the southern edge of the site, next to a young tree. Here there is a stile set in a drystone wall which you cross.
Once over the stile cross the field on the far side heading for a stile on the far side.
Cross this stile too, steadily approaching farms and houses on the edge of the village of Sheldon.
Clamber over another stile and walk along a clearly defined path. You soon reach a further stile which leads you into a field.
Walk straight across the field approaching a stile.
Once over the stile walk a short distance straight ahead heading for a narrow cut-through next to a metal gate leading onto a track.
Turn left on the far side of the gate and head down a track towards the road leading out of Sheldon.
On the road turn right and begin walking back towards Bakewell.
Walk along the road for quite some distance, presently it curves around a bend and approaches the bottom of Kirk Dale.
Here on the left there is a footpath waymark and a wooden gate leading into a steep sided field. Walk down across the field approaching a gate at the bottom.
Once through the gate there is a narrow lane running uphill through woodland on the far side of the road running off the left.
Cross the road and turn left heading up this tree lined lane.
Soon on the right there is a short flight of stone steps leading up to a stile. Turn right and head up this steps and across the stile into the field on the other side.
In the field head straight up the bank until you reach the top of the hill.
Once at the top of the hill carry on straight across the field.
Soon you approach the farmyard of Dirtlow Farm. Here on the left there is a wooden gate leading into the farmyard.
On entering the farmyard walk straight ahead following the footpath along the line of a wall skirting the edge of the farmyard.
Soon having passed the cowsheds you reach a sharp bend in the road and a metal gate.
Walk through this metal gate and head straight downhill approaching a lane.
Upon reaching the side of the road there is a wooden footgate which you pass through. Once on the road turn right.
Walk along the road for some distance.
Keep an eye out on the left for a wooden stile set deep in a hedgerow leading out onto a field.
Once in the field, walk straight downhill.
Here there is a footpath waymark pointing straight ahead across a line of trees comprising a field boundary.
Carry on straight ahead on the far side walking, past a tumbled down drystone wall and through a stand of trees.
Beyond the trees carry on straight towards a wooden stile leading into a field, which you cross approaching a lane.
Once on the lane, cross over the road, heading slightly to the left.
Here you enter a field and head uphill.
At the top you reach a wooden gate which leads out to the top of a shallow dale. Once through the gate head slightly to the left and follow a path running down to the bottom of the dale and up the other side.
Near the top of the dale there is a stone stile which you cross. Carry on straight across the field on the far side of the stile. Look out on the left for a stile into an adjacent field.
Once in the adjoining field turn right and begin walking along the line of the wall.
At the top of the field there is a wooden gate leading out onto a lane. Once on the lane turn left and head along a short snicket on the far side of the road leading to a wooden gate out into a field.
Now the church spire and roofs of Bakewell stand before you in the near distance.
Through the wooden gate head straight ahead, steadily downhill approaching a stile set in a drystone wall.
Carry on across the meadow on the far side heading for a wooden gate leading out onto a meadow right on the edge of Bakewell.
In this meadow turn right and follow a path downhill heading towards a snicket between two houses.
Walk through a wooden gate and head down the snicket.
The snicket leads out onto a driveway serving several houses which you walk straight down.
At the bottom of the driveway you come out on the little lane opposite the limestone gateway at the top of Bakewell churchyard.
Here, turn left and walk along the lane.
Just beyond the church yard there are some steps on your right which you walk down.
Turn right and begin walking downhill along the road past the church heading into the centre of Bakewell.
Carry on downhill, now retracing your first steps, until you reach the Rutland Hotel and the side of the A6 once more.
This is where the walk ends.
Getting Back
From the centre of Bakewell (at the time of writing in June 2024) there are frequent buses throughout the day, every day of the week but less frequent and finishing earlier on Sundays, south towards Derby, via Matlock, Cromford and Belper (where there are stations) with some buses also going via Wirksworth towards Derby. There are also buses west to Buxton (which has a station on the line north towards Manchester) and east to Chesterfield town centre and railway station. There is also a northeasterly bus to Sheffield, which stops at both the bus and railway stations. There are less frequent local services serving other Derbyshire locations and villages throughout the Peak District.